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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.